Missoula, MT

Andreas Paepcke

Jul 15, 2026

Three rest days in Missoula, MT
← Full trip map

To Each Generation Its Obvious

When I interviewed in Silicon Valley in 1981 one interview question was:

Should a mouse have one, two, or three buttons?

My veiled answer:

What's a mouse?

Just a very few years later, I watched my 4-year-old daughter grab the mouse on my computer with complete certainty. Navigating the cursor.

Yesterday our 4-year-old's grandmother reported that Milo had detailed questions about leprechauns.

Hearing her response that she didn't know the answer:

Why don't you ask Claude?

Who is Claude?

In complete competence:

It's something you can ask any question. It knows everything.

The Greatest Generation, The Digital Generation, The AI Generation. All the others are just noise in the generational progression.

Along the Way

Between the town of West Yellowstone, and Missoula, wide valleys, the Bitterroot Mountains. Mostly untravelled back roads.

This spot stands out.

Shoshone Spot Plaque
Prehistoric grazing to
the Shoshone, Lewis & Clark,
and Sacagawea. Enlarge to read, if interested.
Shoshone spot photo
Prehistoric Animals
These grazed right here Millions
of years ago.
One spot on the way to Missoula

Agriculture Unites Us

My family in Germany, horse tenders, wrote very recently that they were stocking their stable attic with hay for the Winter. The gist was that heavy bales needed carrying in 100+° heat. Hotter in that attic.
Making Hay
The rural rhythms across continents

Riding through rolling landscape thousands of miles away I see the same pattern. It's time to make hay. Here as well. This realization is comforting.

The Smokejumpers Basecamp

I accomplished more emotional exploration than physical exploits here in my nice Best Western Plus hotel. An unprecedented three nights stay. However, I could not resist this:
Smokejumpers basecamp
Smokejumpers basecamp in Missoula, MT
Smoke jumpers guide
Has been jumping into wildfires
for 15 years.
Jumping fully loaded
Jumping fully loaded
The smokejumpers basecamp in Missoula, MT

There are 400 to 600 individuals qualified to jump from airplanes into wildfires. They are distributed across nine centers across the Western States. Places like Redding, CA, West Yellowstone, MT, Redmond, OR.

They jump with three days supplies loaded onto their bodies. Food, water, pick axes, bear spray, emergency shelter, communications.

Destination backpack
Everything goes into this pack upon landing.

Once they land, hopefully in the designated spot, everything, including the parachute go into this ~100lb backpack.

For the case that they land in a tree, they carry ribbon rope from which they can construct a harness for rapelling down. They then climb back up to retrieve the parachute.

After they jump they must count for five seconds before pulling the main chute deployment cord. Two early, and the fabric is damaged by the aircraft. Two late, and the emergency chute triggers.

Two jumpers always deploy as a pair into the same landing spot. Sometimes this is all they have time for before having to make airspace room for tankers, retardent spray planes, and other related traffic. They may then loop back, and deploy another two jumpers.

Sewing room
All clothing, backpacks are sewn
localy by the jumpers themselves.
Jump plane
Advanced smokejumper deployment plane
Plane inside
Inside view of deployment plane
Fourteen jumpers deployable

Two experienced personnel, spotters, in the plane find jumping spots, and evaluate the type and size of the fire. The jumpers themselves are already loaded in their seats, and nearly immobile. The spotters decide how many jumpers will be needed. Some may simply return home.

The two person exit is highly choreographed and practiced. Spotters yell their commands into the jumper's ears. As soon as the first is out, the second must take position, sitting on the floor, feet dangling outside.

Parachute inspection
Each parachute is inspected upon return
Parachute inspection room ceiling
Complex pulley system: unreparable
Parachute folding
Parachute folding
All jumpers participate in parachute care

The plane the Forest Service owns is older than the one shown here. The hotter the temperature, the fewer jumpers it can carry. The one shown is contracted, flown by a 25-year-old woman, and capable of flying into and though almost anything fully loaded.

Parachutes used to be round, which was practical in that no skill was required of the jumper. The downside was that the jumper had no control during descent. Now they jump with rectangular chutes, which can be steered, sped up, slowed down to a great extent. The downside is that more skill is required.

The ceiling photo above illustrates that smoke jumping suffers from the same legacy problems as software. What is Cobol code in one environment is the pulley system hidden above that ceiling.

Nobody can figure out how the numbered activation switches on the wall lead to pulling of ropes with the corresponding number on the ceiling. You fix one, and another stops working. It's a mess. But it works sufficiently. Just like that Cobol accounting program from the mid seventies.

Final folding
Final folding of an equipment parachute

Parachute inspection includes the obvious, rips or burns. But also insects that would eat through the fabric.

Folding and packing is done by the jumpers. It takes around 15 packing attempts to learn how to do it. Obviously, supervision is intense.

Personnel parachutes are not the only ones in use. Others are for dropping jumper supplies, food, equipment.

Parachute bins
Each folded parachute is marked
with the folder's name.

If any pack is discovered ill-folded, all the packs folded by that individual are pulled and inspected. I can't stand the embarrassment I feel even just imagining my having made such a mistake.

Deliver anything
Smokejump centers can deliver almost anything
into a wildfire region

With some pride our jumper-guide explained that they can shove almost anything out of an airplane if the jumpers on the ground need it.

Generators, fuel, food, bear spray, chain saws. They are working on delivering electric bicyles. Every jumper is certified to wield a chainsaw. They wear chops that will stop a chainsaw from running through a thigh.

Survival shelter
Survival shelter

The survival shelter is not just a foil blanket. There are multiple layers, and other features. The jumper would lie on his belly, breathing the relatively cool air that thermodynamics will wash into the interior near the ground. The structure is designed to have the heat travel above it.

However, our guide explained, this is such a last resort that we would hear about in the news. There would be investigations. He never even had to contemplate using his.